MOROCCO

The scent of Fes is something you never quite forget. It is a sharp, unmistakable mix of heavy musk and ancient tradition that hits you long before you even see the limestone vats of the Chouara Tannery. Believed to have been established in the 11th century, it remains the oldest and largest working tannery in the world.

Standing on a balcony overlooking that beehive of activity, watching men knee-deep in colorful dyes, it feels like peering back into the medieval heart of the city. We clutched our sprigs of fresh mint to our noses to soften the pungent air, captivated by a raw artistry that has remained largely unchanged since the city's foundation.

Retreating from the vibrant, chaotic energy of the medina to Riad al Bartal felt like stepping into a peaceful dream. Historically, these homes were designed as inward-facing paradise gardens inspired by Roman villas, prioritizing privacy and providing a cool sanctuary from the desert heat. This riad stands as a charming example of early 20th-century Arab-Andalusian architecture.

Stepping through the modest doorway, the sensory intensity of the tanneries began to fade. We were greeted by a soaring courtyard filled with lush greenery and the soft chirping of birds, surrounded by the same intricate zellij tilework and carved cedar that originally signaled a family’s prestige. It was the perfect bridge between the hardworking past of Fes and its enduring, quiet elegance.